"Ears, jowls, belly. They come brined, blanched, shattered and fried, each tip blackened and alchemized, each pocket of fat approaching liquefaction. A raw yolk idles on top. Stab it and churn. This is sisig, the greatest pork hash — arguably greatest pork dish — on earth. Say the name with two flicks of the tongue, somewhere between a whisper and a hiss." The Filipino menu at Lumpia Shack Snackbar in the West Village takes a step up from the food market.
Hungry City: Lumpia Shack Snackbar in the West Village: